Visiting nurseries for many years, I have always noticed that we pay too much attention to food additives and other latest developments. Focusing on this, we think that this is quite enough for athletic development, and we lose sight of what makes up the daily life of the dog.
We like to talk about different aspects of the physical development of the dog, and only a small part of us is aware that proper maintenance and care of the dog should last 365 days a year, and this is much more important than what we do a few days before the competition.
It makes no sense to talk about physical fitness if the dog is unhealthy. You may have the most expensive food and nutritional supplements, or the latest medications, but if the animal has worms in the intestines or parasites on the wool that you have not noticed or the administration of anthelmintic drugs was ineffective for one reason or another, it will bring to nothing all successes that have been achieved.
The following factors also have a negative effect: keeping a dog in a room that does not meet the requirements, or in which humidity is high; wrong size of the booth; poor water supply. Anything that causes one or another long-term stress will affect the ability of the dog to show its result.
Conditions may affect the dog in another way. Think of those puppies that the fighters never made, because their conditions were bad. No doubt, many excellent dogs are lost forever, you will not see them at competitions, someone is injured, or left without teeth, or has other deviations that make further progress impossible.
So this article is for those who want to maintain the physical and moral condition of their pets at the proper level.
I will describe a universal chain harness for several dogs, as it is more practical, economical and safe compared to the usual chain harness method.
CHAINS: think about the quality and how long they will serve. Heavy chains are often used because the dog cannot crack them.
Forget about using any lock, even the most durable ones are worse than the carbine, which securely holds the chain.
Chains with link thickness of 3/8 inch (- 1 cm), rings and rotational elements are suitable for adult dogs. A chain with a smaller link size is suitable for puppies that are put on a chain for the first time. Larger or smaller link size is not as important as strength; The weakest parts of the chain (connections) must be strong and not worn.
Take a chain with 3/8 inch link thickness. Attach a connecting link to one end, then a rotating element, one more connecting link to it and, finally, a heavy ring of such thickness that will allow the connecting link to close. Through this heavy ring axle is passed from the old car. Attach a connecting link to the other end of the chain, then a rotating element, another connecting link and a ring of larger diameter so that the dog’s collar can easily pass through this ring.
COLLAR should not be inferior in quality chain. In specialized magazines for dog owners you will find many different types of collars. Nylon collars. the most practical and convenient in operation.
Axes from old cars are inexpensive and very comfortable. Some leave the upper part of the axis on the ground, but young dogs can manage to wind the chain, especially when a tree branch is within reach. In this case, the dog will not be able to get to the booth. And if you can also hide from the sun only under the booth, it can be a deadly threat to the life of the dog, happen like this in your absence.
Car axle should be completely buried in the ground. Thereby you will protect the dog from the above case. You will also have to move all the fastening elements of the chain from the axis so that they are not in the ground and can function.
Regularly check the chain, especially the part that is attached to the collar, because this part is under the greatest load.
In many kennels, the chain on which the dog is planted includes just one rotating element. I had a case in cold weather when the chain with one rotating element got tangled. The chain became shorter and did not let the dog get into the booth. During cold nights, the dog often changes position to keep warm. Therefore, the long chain must have a rotating element at each end.
The consequences of insufficient activity of the dog are boredom and stress. Dogs begin to destroy their kennels and play obsessively with chains. Many of them thus part with their teeth. If the chains in the kennels were longer and, as a result, gave the dogs more freedom to move, the dogs would not break their teeth.
We need to create conditions for keeping dogs at a safe distance from each other, to minimize situations that are dangerous for animals: to protect dogs from the destruction of booths, bowls and their own teeth.
I, in turn, would like to learn more about how to prevent situations involving the loss of teeth in dogs.
This way of keeping a dog allows her to move freely enough over a large area and can be used if your kennel is not very big.
The inconvenience is that the elements of this design can easily fail (they can fray). If you have chosen this type of tether, make sure that the attachment points of the cable to trees or poles are strong enough. There must be restraints on the cable so that the dog cannot reach the point of attachment of the cable and get confused.
The cable can be stretched between two poles dug into the ground. The advantage of this method of leash is that you can adjust the height of the cable and the length of the chain so that it does not touch the ground (not dragged along the ground and faeces). Install the ropes so that they are parallel to each other and lead to your home or towards the place where you come to feed the dogs. Dogs will be able to exercise, running on the rope.
I saw interesting ways to tie dogs in the Mountain Man kennel many years ago. Cables were stretched across a quiet backwater, and booths stood on the banks of the river. So the dogs always had to cross the river.
BOOTH. I deny the idea of a warm and battered dog house in favor of a dry and ventilated one. The booth should have enough space for rest (sleep), it should protect the dog from rain and wind. I believe that the booth should not accumulate warm air. The place to sleep should not be too dry or wet. Sources of moisture are the following factors: the booth is on the ground, or low above the ground; wind blowing rain or snow, dog breathing condensate on the inside of the booth, which is especially dangerous in cold weather. When you change the litter in the booth, wet lumps always accumulate in the corners. The drier the litter, the fewer problems with skin, eyes that are stuck together, and the dog less often suffers from respiratory diseases. That is why I am not a supporter of poorly ventilated rooms.
Whichever booth you use, it is imperative that the entrance be located high enough. The booth should be placed on the blocks or any other stand so that it is not on the ground. If you position the entrance to the booth on the south side, the dog will be able to bask in the sun while in his house. By arranging the entrance in this way, you will minimize moisture ingress into the booth during the winter time, since in winter the north winds usually bring rain and snowfall.
If you have several booths, then they should be located on the above principle, that is, the entrances to the booths should be located equally (on the one hand). I think that the neater the kennel looks, the better it will be perceived by neighbors and critics of keeping dogs on a leash. In any case, nothing bad is when the nursery looks elegant.
Currently, I use booths on high stands to allow dogs to hide from the heat in the booth.
Modern industry produces plastic booths. They are cheap and do not require complex assembly. Price and convenience make them popular. Their negative sides: condensation forms inside, and dogs can chew on them. They are also very light, and they need to be firmly fixed on the ground, otherwise the booths will turn into toys for dogs. If you have a lot of dogs, and you know the way to protect the booths from rapid destruction, then perhaps they will suit you.
In the past, I used metal booths. D.K., the owner of CH FREDDY, the brother of CH HOMMER and CH MOUNTAIN BOY, also used metal booths.
They are durable, and dogs can not chew them. On one side, at the very top, I cut a hole measuring 8.5 x 9 inches (-22 x 23 cm), I carefully clean the edges of the hole. Holes are drilled in the bottom (on three rims, if it is a barrel). Then the laying is put. The booth is placed on the blocks and tied to them with wire, thereby the booth does not rot on the ground, and the dog can not overturn it. In the booth, there must be a litter, as the litter warms the dog, and the metal walls keep the room dry. This is the best option, especially for dogs that bite their booths. The disadvantages of such a booth are that it condenses moisture, like plastic, and without bedding it is not suitable for living.
I also used mineral oil barrels as booths, they were blue, very light inside, and easy to clean. Today it is difficult to find a clean metal barrel, and if you are still living in a populated area, that is, in plain sight, then it is better to use something more like a dog house as a booth.
When I moved to a settlement, I began to use plywood, and now, as time passes, I give preference to plywood booths. They are drier. The entrance to the booth is good to finish with oak or metal, as some dogs strive to gnaw a larger hole. Some booths have been serving for 4-5 years and will serve more. Dogs can lie on the roof and bask in the sun, in hot weather they can hide under the booth.
The roof of the booth is easily removed, which facilitates the process of cleaning. A small ventilation device located across the roof prevents condensation from forming inside the booth. The disadvantages of this design are higher cost and assembly.
In very cold weather, the formation of ice from the dog’s breathing is inevitable, which in turn during thawing will lead to wetting of the litter. The wet podgilku should be changed to a new one.
WATER. the most important thing comes first.
In terms of their significance, I will put water quality in the first place compared to the maintenance of the dog, food, running worms, etc. Water should always be fresh and easily accessible. For this purpose, usually used plastic buckets with a capacity of 5 gallons (
18.9 liters). If your dogs overturn water containers immediately after you fill them, if dogs play with them, then know that your water supply system for dogs does not meet the requirements.
Since most dogs use everything they can move as a toy, water containers must either be very heavy or must be firmly fixed so that the dog cannot move or overturn them.
Personally, I prefer concrete containers with a capacity of about a gallon (-3.8 liters), because I change the water daily. Plastic buckets of greater capacity are convenient because there is no need to pour water every day, but I am against stale water and insects around dogs.
Upon separate consideration, all the above facts are not very important, but in sum, they qualitatively affect the whole process of training dogs.
Creating all conditions for dogs to reach the peak of their capabilities, we are not guaranteed against failure.
But it is better to bring up a talented dog in proper conditions than to destroy a gifted animal with the wrong content.